Mineral Makeup: MakeupFix Tips & Training - How to Apply Lip Stick and Lip Liner
Do Liner First
|Lip Liner is optional but if you use it, it should go on first. Don’t use a liner darker than your lipstick, because if the lipstick fades and the liner doesn’t you’re left with just an outline. Use neutral or lipstick matched liner.
Starting at the center of your upper lip, draw a line to each outer corner, following the edge of your natural lip line. Fill in colour all over lips if you want extra holding power for your lipstick.
HINT: Chill lip pencil in the refrigerator for a few minutes to make sharpening easier.
A dusting of powder or a bit of foundation beneath lipstick can maximize its staying power. Either can dry lips though, so use a creamy formula lipstick. Stretch you lips and starting at the center of top or bottom, glide colour to corners. Blot, reapply and blot again for longer-lasting colour.
HINT: A lip brush gives you more precision when applying lipstick.
The colours that suit you are:
- Light Blondes can use wines, berries and mauves. They also suit cappuccino colours.
- Golden Blondes should use corals, apricots or peachy hues.
- Blondes with olive skin tones are best suited to warm peaches, browns or terracottas.
- Brunettes suit terracottas, cinnamons and brown tinted reds.
- Red Heads can use warm terracotta colours, cinnamons and peachy browns.
|Some of us have less perfect lips than others, but don’t despair! There are plenty of tricks of the trade to help make your lips more balanced and beautiful. Some of the most effective solutions are:
- The best lip colour fixative? Apply a thin layer of lip balm. The formula holds lip colour extremely well as it heals and protects.
- A light dusting of powder over lips also gives lipstick or gloss something to cling to for longer, smoother wear.
- For longer wear, blot lips after applying lipstick to set colour and remove excess. Add a thin layer of loose or pressed powder, then apply colour again.
- Turn down too much shine by holding a tissue to your lips and pressing a little loose powder through it – just enough will sift through the tissue to adhere to the colour and reduce the shine.
- Turn up the shine with a thin layer of clear lip gloss over lipstick or alone.
- For fuller, poutier lips, spotlight lip gloss right in the center of your lips.
- Keep matte lip colour from drying your lips – use a thin layer of lip balm before you apply the matte colour.
- For evening special effects, apply sheer lip gloss in silver, gold or an iridescent shade over the lipstick.
- To stop lipstick from bleeding, use a lip liner, or apply foundation over the lips first.
- If you have big lips, use muted colours such as purples, browns and bronzes.
- If you have small lips, avoid dark colours.
- Professionals prefer to use a brush for lipstick application. Brushes generally allow you to use much less lipstick.
Common Ingredients in Mineral Makeup
|Sound like an expert in no time! Terms you will need to be very familiar with as you begin to sell your brand to the market include:
Slip: The product’s slip is reference to how smooth it glides across the skin. The Slip can be marketed with terms such as ‘silky’ or ‘smooth’ or ‘glides easily’ or ‘non greasy smooth application’.
Adhesion: Matt shadows tend to have greater adhesion from zinc or titanium dioxide content, and less ‘slip’ because they are dense. Lighter particles drop or ‘fall’ under the eye area, so adhesion is important, however too much, and you will experience a ‘crease’ effect.
Coverage is Key! Coverage of a product is exceptionally important when you are evaluating a mineral foundation formulation and or a concealer. These are your two products that must deliver good coverage. If the blend is marketed for ‘theatrical’ or ‘professional makeup artists’ the coverage must be higher than a ‘beauty brand’ or retail cosmetic label’ who’s coverage is medium/standard for a foundation used for every day use. Coverage is achieved by increasing the opacity of the formulation, higher zinc oxide and higher titanium dioxide content is one way you will be able to achieve greater coverage. (Applying more of a mineral foundation, may increase coverage somewhat, but it will result in a more ‘cakey’ look, so you can now understand how important it is to have a good formulation, so clients do not have to rely on over application, which will result in greater creases and a cakey look.
Invisible, Setting or Translucent – is used to describe setting powders or primers. They prepare the surface of the skin, and the product is not designed to deliver any colour, just to prepare the skin for cosmetic application. Setting powders should be translucent. They are often gently tinted. This is a gentle tint, and its objective is not to ‘add colour’ but to prevent a too white or ghost like finish.
Common ingredients in my Mineral Makeup and other mineral cosmetics
Titanium Dioxide is a lightening agent, which adds the ‘white’ to formulations and cosmetics. It is a mineral that is said to carry natural sunscreen properties and even anti-inflammatory properties.
Often it is used as a lightening agent, and even used in some ice creams! It will make your products "stick” more to the skin, so Titanium Dioxide will add adhesion, coverage and the exact same applies to Zinc Oxide as well.
Magnesium Stearate is a very fine powder, it is derived from plants or beef. All magnesium stearate from Eternity Designs is strictly plant derived. It adds a beautiful smooth, glide to the application process. A feeling to the mineral foundation that can be marketed as premium. It is a very very fine powder, so it does not add whiteness or any colour, but it is very ‘sticky’ and clings onto skin, adding great adhesion.
Sericite is mica. Sericite appears at times on product panels as "mica”, so for once and for all, we can remove that mystery ingredient off you list. On your mineral foundation panels and boxes, the ingredient of Sericite does not get listed because the international nomenclature name for Sericite, is Mica, it is derived from muscovite, mica, it is a super fine powder, colourless , with some shimmer. The light retractive properties of this ingredient help provide a ‘flawless’ effect to cosmetics.
Bismuth Oxychloride. This ingredient is not used in MAKEUPFIX mineral cosmetics, however it is used in mineral makeup. It can cause breakouts and irritations. Sericite is the most natural replacement, however some are replacing it with Boron Nitrate/Nitrite, which fall into the category of Magnesium stearate, as it moves away from being a pure mineral, and undergoes processing.
Iron oxides are inorganic pigments; they are derived from oxides in the earth and then purified. Although the purification process of iron oxides ‘flushes’ the rocks and earth minerals in fluids to bring out its colours and purify/clean the particles, it is an earth-derived colour. It is not organic and it is natural, however arguably natural (as the flushing process washes it out with possibly non-natural fluids). The outcome is a cosmetic grade iron oxide. Some are synthetically manufactured however in the end, they are still minerals and derived from earth-extracted particles.
Mica is derived from muscovite, and it is a natural shimmery mineral. It is available to the market in many forms, natural (ESSE uncoloured), coated (in mineral iron oxides SOME ESSE, SOME ES), coated (in synthetic colourants SOME ES). Mica is still a mineral and all forms can be marketed as "mineral makeup”. Natural mica is un-coloured, however some are specially manufactured with other coatings – to give them their beautiful shimmer and a wide range of different colours. All are still minerals and are the main ingredient in most mineral cosmetics.
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